Friday, 10 February 2017

QUEEN OF GUJARAT - PATOLA SAREE



Patola saree were famous of saree of Gujarat. Patola are known as “Queen of Gujarat”, and it will be not wrong if you call it “Charm of west India”. Since many year patola saree are weaves by weaver. Patola has a royal history. Silk weavers of the salvi caste from the state of Karnataka and Maharashtra choose Gujarat as the home for their renowned patola fabric. Over a period 700 weavers came to palace of king kumarpal. These craftsmen belonged to Salvi families for whom weaving patola sarees was a family tradition handed down through generations. Over the centuries, with the demand for the product seeing a downward trend, the Salvis diverted their attention to other fields. Today, only three families are said to be practicing this art. But the process and value have still been maintained. Vinayak Salvi, along with his brothers and family members, are some of the few dedicated craftsmen of Patan who still contribute to the production of patola sarees in the country. Gujarat famous poet “premanand” narrative patola in his famous poem “KUVARBAI NU MAMERU” as “lakho pachhedi pandar kodi, patola pachas vahuji”. It means that i will have 300upper clothes and fifty patola. One of our famous folk song of Gujarat also narrate patola “chhelaji re mare hatu patan thi patola mongha lavjo”. It means O’my dear bring precious patan patola for me.



·      In single ikat only vertically resist dye. This is a resist-dye process where bound patterns (like in tie & dye) are applied to the ‘warp’ threads in keeping with the exact design that is desired later upon weaving these threads with extreme precision. More the number of bindings and colours, more intricate & elaborate the design. The weft thread is of a plain colour without any bindings. Sambalpuri, Pochampalli, Rajkoti Patola are fine Indian examples of single Ikat work.


SINGLE IKAT PATOLA

·      In double ikat only horizontally resist dye. The double ikat weave is a difficult weave to produce. The procedure involved in making double ikkat type of sarees is very complicated and time consuming. It requires great care and skill. In these type of saree both side have same design so you can wear from any side. The colour used in these type of saree are from vegetable extracts. As natural dye are used for these saree so there is no fear of any allergies. The colour durability is very high and the colours of the sarees never become pale even with continuous wash. The difficult method of weaving and using of natural extracts increases the price of these sarees… Thus owning these sarees has become a status symbol for the rich. The most difficult method of making patola sarees can be seen in Sadvi Wada.


DOUBLE IKAT PATOLA


The designs used to create patola sarees have a wide range of variations like human figures, birds, animals, and flowers. The designs used in these sarees typically fall into three types that include-

·      ajrak – complex geometric print designs of the Sind
·      evocative of Islamic architectural embellishments
·      purely symmetrical forms




Patola are very famous throughout worldwide. Girls of Gujarat use wear patola saree in their wedding as “PANETAR”. Now a days fashion of patola saree is fast going fashion. Now city textile “surat” is also producing patola saree.  Patolas are generally produced in the red color with white, dark green and yellow patterns.





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